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Wines of Santorini and the Cyclades
Wine is mainly produced
on two Cycladic islands: Santorini and Paros. Nevertheless, Andros,
Tinos and Naxos also produce some decent table wines.
By
far though, Santorini reaps worthily the laurels of the most
important wine-producing island of the Cyclades, if not of
the whole of Greece. It is also the most interesting island
in this domain. Its microclimate presents a lot of particularities:
the volcanic terrain of Santorini is a mixture of chalk, slate,
coal, ash, lava and pumice. It is extremely dry during the
summer when the grapes mature and temperatures during daytime
are very high. On the other hand, this island is being mercilessly
beaten by the north winds- the "meltemia" (etesian winds) - which
prevent the accumulation of humidity on the grapes during
daytime. During the night though, when temperatures drop and
the climatic conditions become relatively humid, the volcanic
terrain absorbs this humidity, thus feeding the grapes.
The result of this
unique combination of climate and terrain is that the Santorini
grapes mature fast and retain their acidity. Like everything else on
the wind-swept Santorini, the vines are also unique. In order to
protect the vines from the meltemia, the people of Santorini prune
them in such a way that they look like a wreath within which the
grapes grow.
There are about 10 local
grape varieties, many of which were kwon since antiquity.
Nowadays, only a few of
them are commercially exploited for wine production. The most
important variety is the Asyrtico, which dominates the island
followed by the white and light Aidani which resembles the
Muscat.
Like Santorini, Paros
also is swept by the strong Aegean winds. As its neighbors in the
south, the people of Paros have developed their own unique method
for cultivation and protection of the vines. Here, they do not
protect the grapes with wreaths like in Santorini. Instead, the
vines grow on very steep slopes in such a way that the fruit is
lying on the ground, sometimes at a distance of 10 meters.
Paros is known for two
basic varieties of grapes and most of its wine is combination of
both. These varieties are red grapes Mantilaria and the white ones
Monemvasia.
Wine-making
in Paros was traditionally synonymous with the production
of unbottled wine, as opposed to bottled. This situation started
changing during the '70s, with the increase of tourists which
brought along the necessity for better quality wines. The
habit though of producing unbottled wine, particularly red,
was so deeply rooted on the island, that the local people
decided to cultivate mainly the Mandilaria variety for red
wine production.
Nowadays thing are
different. Today the Mandilaria variety by law cannot exceed 35% of
the total white grapes cultivated. The rest is covered by the
traditional white variety Monemvasia, or Malvazia, as it is
sometimes called.
Paros can be proud for
the only appellation of origin in the wine field of Greece, for a
wine made by combinations of red and white grapes.
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